You can now take a sleeper train directly from Belgium right through to the Czech Republic with European Sleeper’s latest route expansion.
We’ve written at length here at TPG about the great train revival, particularly the game-changing routes of European Sleeper, which is opening up rail connectivity across the continent.
The rail operator first launched its Brussels-Amsterdam-Berlin night train service in May 2023, and as of Monday extended its service from Berlin to Dresden and Bad Schandau in Germany before traveling to the Czech Republic capital of Prague.
The additional stops mean that you can now board the European Sleeper in Belgium and wake up the following morning in the Czech Republic. The full length of the service will connect four European capitals: Brussels, Amsterdam, Berlin and Prague.
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The newly extended route will initially run three times weekly, departing at 7:22 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and arriving in Prague the following day at 10:56 a.m.
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Several major rail operators — including Eurostar and Nightjet — now offer long-distance connectivity throughout Europe. However, European Sleeper stands out as one of the fastest growing, and many more routes could be added in the coming years, including connections between Amsterdam, Brussels and Barcelona slated for 2025 and 2026.
“We are truly thrilled to be launching the new route to Prague less than a year after launching our first direct service from Brussels to Berlin,” Elmer van Buuren, co-founder of European Sleeper, said in a written statement from the company. “Our goal is to add a new route each year so we can continue to contribute to a more integrated and sustainable European transportation network.”
Bottom line
We’ve said it many times before: Train travel in Europe is booming right now. If you’re considering ditching the skies for a greener and more relaxed way of travel, you’re quickly becoming spoiled for choice on the continent.
European Sleeper’s latest route expansion will take you between Brussels, Amsterdam, Berlin and Prague, making it an excellent option for those wishing to see four great European capitals by rail.
Business travel is on the rise. Companies still see it as essential and are willing to spend on in-person collaboration. This report unpacks the findings from our business travel statistics research.
There’s a new airport option for U.S. travelers hoping to make the trek to Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula — one that doesn’t involve the packed terminals and dense crowds of Cancun.
On Thursday, Tulum’s brand new Felipe Carrillo International Airport (TQO) welcomed the first flights from U.S. airlines. It was an occasion marked by music, dancing and decor on both sides of the border.
Situated nearly 100 miles from the busy Cancun International Airport (CUN), every bit of the Tulum airport is actually new — from the runway to the building and even the access road that leads to the terminal.
One of several infrastructure mega projects touted by Mexican President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, construction on the airport began in earnest in 2022 following years of discussion.
The airport technically opened in December, but that was just for domestic flights operating within Mexico.
The broader grand opening came on Thursday, starting when American Airlines Flight 1131 arrived from Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport (DFW), receiving a water cannon salute upon arrival.
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For any airline, flying to a new city is a big deal. That’s even truer when it’s a new airport altogether, American’s senior vice president of DFW hub operations Jim Moses told TPG in a pre-flight interview.
“Our teams have been working really hard — both with the Mexican authorities, with Tulum International Airport — on all the prep work that goes into making all this happen,” Moses said.
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“All the logistics that go into it, the support for the flights that go in and out of there,” Moses explained, “[It’s] just a lot of work to start a new city … a new airport.”
On top of inaugurating twice-daily Tulum service from DFW Thursday, American also launched new nonstop routes to the new airport from its hubs at Charlotte Douglas International Airport (CLT) and Miami International Airport (MIA).
American went all out in Tulum, too, with its check-in counters decked out in balloons and signage.
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There also was a party-like atmosphere at American’s departing gate at Tulum, which hosted a news conference celebrating the launch of flights to the U.S. along with food, beverages and lots of balloons.
And American wasn’t alone.
Delta Air Lines’ first flight from Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL) also touched down at the new airport Thursday.
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Delta had its own celebrations at the check-in counters with balloons, cupcakes and even souvenir Delta Air Lines playing cards available for passengers.
TPG’s Clint Henderson was on the inaugural Delta flight from Tulum Thursday afternoon. Delta Air Lines Flight 1772 left from the shiny new D3 gate. There wasn’t nearly the celebration that American Airlines was having next door, but flight attendants and Delta airport employees were buzzing with excitement. Passengers on Delta’s inaugural departure were treated to free margaritas, a flight attendant in the gate area told TPG.
United Airlines will launch its own inaugural Tulum service on Sunday from Newark Liberty International Airport (IAH) and Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH).
And the growth will continue from there.
United plans to add nonstops from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) and Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport (ORD) later this spring.
JetBlue is also venturing into Tulum, with plans to launch service later this spring from New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK).
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Beyond routes to the U.S. and domestic Mexican routes, Air Canada will offer nonstops to Montreal and Toronto, and Copa plans to fly from Tulum to Panama City.
Spirit Airlines hoped to launch service to Tulum, but had to postpone those plans amid fleet constraints.
Altogether, airlines plan to offer some 170,000 seats out of Tulum by July, according to aviation analytics firm Cirium — quite the jump from the mere 45,000 or so flown by Mexican carriers last month.
How Tulum airport compares to Cancun
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Eventually, Tulum’s new airport has the capacity to handle about 4 million passengers annually, according to the airport’s website.
Even with its fast growth at the beginning of operations, don’t expect the experience at the new airport to be anything like Cancun.
The elder Yucatan hub is far bigger and busier, with four terminals, dozens of gates airlines arriving from around the world.
Just last year, in fact, Cancun saw nearly 4.8 million travelers from the U.S. alone pass through its customs facilities, according to a recent report from Mexico’s tourism minister.
Tulum figures to be far less crowded, with its single terminal and 13 gates.
For travelers hoping to avoid the throngs of other passengers, that’s likely a good thing, said Wisconsin-based travel advisor Rose Gray, of Fox World Travel — whose clients have increasingly bemoaned the crowds in Cancun.
“It just seems like on a daily basis we’re hearing people say, ‘I waited two hours for my luggage,’ or, ‘The lines to check in were unbelievably long,’ or all those kinds of complaints,” Gray said. “I think this is hopefully going to lighten that load a bit.”
On top of a far shorter wait for checked luggage, the airport itself is more modern, with natural light pouring into the ticketing area through a translucent roof, and more technically advanced identify verification stations at check-in and security.
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On the concourse, travelers will find floor-to-ceiling windows offering panoramic views of the jetway, and modern sculpted ceilings that give a small taste of Mayan aesthetic.
The airport is also a far more convenient option for travelers hoping to visit Tulum itself and other nearby parts of the Riviera Maya. After all, visiting Tulum and surrounding area, historically, has required a flight to Cancun and then a lengthy ride by car or shuttle.
“I look at it as that niche market, but it is a market that, we’ve had customers talk to us about wanting to fly right into Tulum,” Moses told TPG. “So I think this is going to fit into our portfolio in Mexico incredibly nicely.”
Growing pains likely
Still. that’s not to say the airport won’t have its own growing pains.
For starters, the airport is not actually in Tulum. It’s 20-plus miles from town, and a good 40-minute ride from many of the region’s top beach resorts.
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Parts of the airport remain under construction, too — most notably concessions, with few food options for passengers beyond a bag of chips — though signs clearly show more choices are on the way.
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Inside the terminal, there were signs for future restaurants you’ll know like Burger King and Applebee’s — plus local establishments, too. For now, though, there are just three small shops selling snacks.
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There is space for a lounge, but none are currently ready.
Finally, there are two children’s playgrounds post security, which should help those traveling with little ones.
The Wi-Fi wasn’t working at the airport and airport employees weren’t sure how long it would take to get set up, but said it was coming — eventually.
The air conditioning seemingly wasn’t ready for launch of U.S. flights, either. The airport had set up large mobile air conditioners, but it was quite hot in the terminal. A gate agent said he hoped it would be fixed shortly.
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Also still under construction: the airport’s Tren Maya station — a stop on Mexico’s massive new rail line that will encircle much of the Yucatan Peninsula — once it’s fully open, at least. That’s expected later this year.
In the meantime, local hotel leaders have raised concerns in recent months about “uncompetitive” pricing for existing ground transportation options. Some local reports have suggested confusing ground transportation options — or pricing that seems above normal for the region, with few alternate options.
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Still, the airport figures to offer travelers a convenient new way to explore this region of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula — especially as airlines add more flights and the airport’s operations get fully on track in the months ahead.
If you’ve ever dreamed of traveling to New Zealand, with its spectacular landscapes, stunning national parks and natural wonders like Milford Sound, there is excellent award availability using Star Alliance miles in April. Best of all, you can travel nonstop in business class from the West Coast.
Air New Zealand is currently showing generous nonstop availability from both Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) and San Francisco International Airport (SFO) to Auckland Airport (AKL) on many dates in April.
You can easily view the availability by month on the United Airlines MileagePlus website, where you can book one-way flights for 110,000 miles plus $43.30 in fees and taxes each way.
There are also limited seats on the nonstop service from Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH) in April and May.
An even better deal is booking the same flights with Air Canada Aeroplan points, where you will be charged just 75,000 points each way in business class. Keep in mind, though, that there’s a slightly higher charge of $95 for fees and taxes.
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There is some availability for return flights to the U.S. in April at the same price, though your options are far more plentiful when traveling to the Land of the Long White Cloud.
It’s worth noting that Air New Zealand offers lie-flat seats with direct aisle access and a decent soft product, but the seats lack privacy and storage. The airline will introduce an all-new and much-improved business-class seat in 2024, though this will not be in place for these April dates.
This offer once again illustrates the value of earning transferable points. If you only collect United miles, you would need to pay 110,000 miles each way for these flights. However, if you have transferable points, you could choose to transfer them to Aeroplan at a 1:1 ratio from the following programs:
Finding a 13-hour nonstop business-class flight in a lie-flat seat for just 75,000 credit card points plus minimal fees and taxes is an excellent deal. If you have ever considered visiting the spectacular country of New Zealand, consider jumping on this award availability.
While Air New Zealand does not have the most cutting-edge business-class seats, for this price, you can sleep all the way to the South Pacific.
After almost 20 years in court, the two largest credit card issuers have reached an agreement with retailers and merchants to lower interchange fees.
Interchange — or “swipe” — fees are the charges that the retailer pays when you, as a consumer, use your credit card to make a purchase. They average 2% of the cost of a transaction but can reach 4% for premium credit cards.
That revenue gets passed along to the bank, which puts it toward rewards it offers cardholders — including cash back, points and miles — as well as to underwrite shopping perks like purchase protection and return protection.
The fee is built into the cost of most goods and services and helps to cover credit card benefits and even the points that we value so much here at The Points Guy.
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With this new agreement, retailers are expected to save billions of dollars in interchange fees over the next five years. Visa and Mastercard will lower their rates by 0.04 percentage points for three years and an average of 0.07% over the next five years. However, this agreement is subject to approval by the U.S. District Court for the Eastern District of New York.
The settlement occurred amid pressure from some senators to introduce industry-wide legislation in the form of the Credit Card Competition Act, which may no longer be needed if this agreement holds. The proposed legislation could have far-reaching, potentially negative consequences for consumers and travelers, especially those who like to earn rewards with their credit card spending.
The Electronic Payments Coalition (EPC), which is a group representing credit unions, community banks, payment card networks and other banking institutions involved in the electronic payment process, issued a statement applauding the settlement, suggesting it further erodes the case for new legislation.
“The agreement between merchants, Visa, Mastercard and financial institutions has been decades in the making and treats businesses of all sizes equally without government mandates or jeopardizing consumers’ data security and rewards programs,” said EPC Executive Chairman Richard Hunt.
“The Durbin-Marshall bill has had no debate, no legitimate hearing and continues to be unnecessary,” he continued.
That said, Senator Dick Durbin’s office released a statement after news of the settlement came to light, vowing to press on in pursuit of passing the Credit Card Competition Act. “Today’s news solidifies that it is time to pass my bipartisan, bicameral legislation—the Credit Card Competition Act—to enhance competition between credit card networks and ultimately lower costs for small businesses and consumers,” the senator’s statement read. “We need to bring real competition to the credit card industry. My bill ensures that the Visa-Mastercard duopoly ends their price gouging tactics that disproportionately hurt American families and small businesses.” Only time will tell whether his colleagues will line up behind him to consider the legislation, though, given the evolving situation that Visa and Mastercard’s agreement with retailers has created.
This news also comes on the heels of the announcement of Capital One and Discover merging, which would strengthen their position as a third major player in the industry, increase competition and potentially further negate the need for legislation from Washington, D.C.
There are some nuances to this that may need to play out, such as whether the agreement could open the door to merchants applying a different surcharge depending on which type of card a consumer uses for a purchase.
However, overall, this agreement is being viewed by some, including TPG’s founder, Brian Kelly, as a step in the right direction. The settlement should reduce costs for small businesses while continuing to provide value in the form of rewards and protections to consumers.
We’ll keep you posted on the outcome of the agreement and the impacts on credit card consumers as it evolves. In the meantime, you can watch the video below for thoughts from TPG’s Brian Kelly on today’s agreement.
Spirit Airlines is moving forward again after several years of “inertia” following the coronavirus pandemic and the carrier’s failed merger attempt with JetBlue, chief commercial officer Matt Klein said.
Top of the list for the Florida-based carrier is returning to the black after accumulating more than $2 billion in net losses since 2020. A big part of that turnaround is reworking Spirit’s route map in order to boost revenue and cut unnecessary expenses.
That means you can expect more connecting flights in places like Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport (FLL) and Las Vegas’ Harry Reid International Airport (LAS) and less flying to the competitive — and increasingly delay-prone — Florida market beginning this summer, Klein said on the sidelines of the Routes Americas conference March 20.
“We had a lot of curveballs thrown our way in the last couple of years,” he said. “We were stuck in neutral for a while for a variety of reasons. … You can’t stand still, you’ve got to move forward.”
The pandemic. A failed merger. Issues with Pratt & Whitney engines that have grounded 15 airplanes and counting. The list of challenges Spirit, once one of the most profitable airlines in the U.S., has faced is long.
Not to mention, the carrier has $1.3 billion in debt due next year. That’s significantly more than the $863 million in cash that it had on hand at the end of December.
The airline is still growing, but its schedule will be flat to grow in the “mid-single digits,” or around 5%, this year. That compares to 15% year-over-year growth in 2023.
Spirit focuses on adding flight connections
“We’re going to start looking at doing some more intentional connectivity in some cities,” Klein said. “The reason for that is being able to try some new routes out, or bring back some routes we’ve done in the past. If [the routes] have proper connectivity, that allows for more revenue generation.”
Fort Lauderdale, a large gateway to the Caribbean and Latin America for Spirit, and Las Vegas are cities where it could expand flight connections, Klein said. Other unnamed cities could also see more connectivity, though he declined to name any additional markets.
Spirit plans to unveil an updated summer schedule that includes more flight connections in the next few weeks, Klein said.
Some routes Spirit previously flew from Fort Lauderdale but does not today include Asheville, North Carolina; Bucaramanga, Colombia; Jacksonville, Florida; Lima, Peru; and Panama City, according to Cirium Diio schedules.
“We’re seeing some changes in Fort Lauderdale now — we’re seeing some capacity get removed by a couple of competitors,” Klein said of the market at the airport.
JetBlue, which competes with Spirit in Fort Lauderdale, recently said it would end flights to Lima; Bogota, Colombia; and Quito, Ecuador, in June as part of a larger network shift. And in October, Southwest Airlines announced that it would move many of its Caribbean and Latin American routes from FLL to Orlando International Airport (MCO) to boost connectivity.
Fewer Florida flights at Spirit
Even as Klein spoke of more “intentional connectivity” in Fort Lauderdale, he also said Spirit plans to trim flying to Florida this summer. And by Florida, his comments were understood to mean primarily in Orlando, which Spirit executives have previously said would see cuts.
Spirit’s reductions in the Sunshine State will include both seasonal cuts — there is less demand for seeing the state’s sights and visiting its beaches during the hot, humid summer — as well as ones in response to air traffic control restrictions and elevated levels of airline competition.
“We’re going to have to start moving some things around,” Klein said. “Part of it is operationally driven, and part of it is also commercially driven where we think there may be better opportunities to match up supply and demand.”
Staffing shortages at the Federal Aviation Administration’s Jacksonville Air Route Traffic Control Center have been an issue for several years. The center manages almost all flights into and out of Florida. But despite the FAA engaging with airlines to reduce flight disruptions, Klein and other airline executives say issues persist.
John Pepper, vice president of corporate development and government affairs at Allegiant Air, also highlighted air traffic control disruptions into and out of Florida at Routes Americas.
Flight delays and cancellations add costs for airlines, from accommodating travelers to repositioning planes and crews. Expenses are something Spirit aims to cut as it focuses on returning to profitability.
Competition to and from Florida is also intense, and airline yields — airfares to travelers — have fallen in many markets. The average airfare in Orlando fell 16% on 15% more seats in the third quarter of 2023 compared to the year before, the latest Bureau of Transportation Statistics data via Cirium Diio shows. Spirit saw average fares — not including ancillary fees — drop 27% in the same period.
“There was way too much capacity in that market,” Brett Snyder, author of the blog Cranky Flier, wrote in February. “Orlando has finally hit a wall.”
Klein declined to say where Spirit plans to put the capacity it removes from Florida, again pointing to the imminent summer schedule update.
“At Spirit, we’re going to have a lot of great things, a lot of exciting stuff coming soon,” he said.
Southwest Airlines is preparing to launch a travel option common throughout the airline industry — but one not in place at the Dallas-based carrier.
In the coming years, Southwest says it will begin offering red-eye flights from some of its most popular cities.
It will mark the first time the airline has offered the overnight itineraries, which see passengers depart at night in one time zone and wake up (assuming they slept at all) the next morning in another.
The aptly named itineraries are commonplace throughout the industry. In the U.S., scores of flights take off from the West Coast each night en route to the East Coast. The same is true for flights headed to Europe.
But Southwest doesn’t currently offer any red-eyes — and hasn’t regularly flown them historically, either.
In the past, technology limitations with the carrier’s booking channels prevented the airline from offering red-eye bookings. After the airline migrated to a new system several years ago, that technological barrier was no longer an obstacle.
From that point, it was, seemingly, only a matter of time before the airline began the move to offer red-eyes, as CEO Bob Jordan hinted during an aviation conference last fall.
“At some point Southwest Airlines will be doing red-eyes. Absolutely,” Jordan confirmed during remarks at the Skift Aviation Conference in November.
When will Southwest red-eye flights begin?
It’s still not entirely clear when Southwest’s first red-eye flights might take off. The airline still must complete “a wide range of work,” a company spokesperson told TPG on Monday, noting the process could take “a few years.”
Future red-eye routes would likely depart from prime leisure markets “where they would make sense for our customers, and in places where Southwest has a large presence,” the spokesperson said, specifically noting Hawaii and Harry Reid International Airport (LAS) in Las Vegas.
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A quick look at Southwest’s route map shows the obvious opportunities. For instance, it flies to more than a half-dozen continental U.S. airports from Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL) in Honolulu alone.
The airport’s online departures board for Monday shows a wide range of late-night departures to the U.S. mainland for American Airlines.
DANIEL K. INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
It’s a similar story for United Airlines, Delta Air Lines and Hawaiian Airlines.
But you can see that Southwest’s departures from Hawaii to the U.S. mainland end, on this day, at 3:15 p.m.
DANIEL K. INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
The airline envisions up to 50 nightly red-eye flights in the future, TPG contributor Edward Russell was first to report in The Washington Post last week, citing comments by a Southwest executive at the 2024 Routes Americas Conference in Colombia.
Why is Southwest adding red-eye flights?
A Southwest Airlines jet at Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport (FLL). SEAN CUDAHY/THE POINTS GUY
As for why Southwest is interested in adding red-eye flights to its daily schedule, economics are a big factor.
Red-eye flights help airlines keep their jets in use even during the overnight hours. After all, aircraft don’t make money when they sit still.
“A way to continue to develop your revenue production is to fly our aircraft and utilize them more,” Jordan said at the November conference. “You’re basically producing [capacity] without expending more capital.”
And the need for Southwest to maximize its existing fleet is critical amid 737 MAX delivery delays at Boeing, which saw the carrier move down its 2024 delivery forecast in recent weeks.
Bottom line
Your next trip with Southwest likely won’t feature a red-eye flight, with overnight itineraries likely at least a couple of years away, still. But the carrier has made clear it will add these sleep-depriving flights to its future plans, offering a travel option employed by its competitors for decades.
Editor’s note: TPG’s Erica Silverstein accepted a free trip from Viking to sail Viking Polaris in Antarctica. The opinions expressed below are entirely hers and weren’t subject to review by the line.
Viking Polaris is the ship that bucket list dreams are made of.
The sturdy, 378-passenger ship in the Viking fleet is rated Polar Class 6, so it can take you to the ends of the Earth, no problem. It’s tricked out with Zodiacs, two submersibles, kayaks and a speed boat, so remote islands and narrow bays won’t keep you from close encounters with wildlife and nature.
Checking off worldwide wish-list destinations like Antarctica, the Arctic and the Great Lakes also comes with style. The ship boasts four onboard restaurants and a breathtaking spa that’s open to all. Cabins are cozy and spacious with seating nooks by floor-to-ceiling windows, large (for a ship) bathrooms with heated floors and thoughtful touches for the perfect adventure, like a drying closet and two sets of binoculars.
Public lounge areas are so inviting, with comfortable seating and light-filled spaces thanks to tons of windows, that you’ll be glad to kick back with a book, a puzzle or a drink after an incredible experience ashore. And the crew members do all they can to make you feel right at home, remembering your name and greeting you warmly whenever they see you.
Viking might be inspired by Nordic sailors of yore, who explored the world in their bare-bones longships — or the rugged 20th-century explorers whose portraits line the walls of the ship — but Viking Polaris’ creature comforts would make all those hardy men and women rethink their travel choices. You won’t regret yours if you choose to make this gorgeous little ship your home base for vacation adventure.
Overview of Viking Polaris
At 30,158 tons, Viking Polaris is small by ocean ship standards. The biggest megaships are eight times larger. But it’s actually the largest vessel in the adventure-focused subset of ocean ships known as expedition ships, and it holds an unusually large number of passengers for such a vessel: 378 spread across 189 cabins and suites.
This means that while you’ll enjoy the intimacy and personalized service of a small ship when you’re on board, not to mention the additional onboard venues the extra space allows, you will need to wait your turn when going ashore in some destinations such as Antarctica, where only 100 people are allowed onshore at each landing site at a time.
In addition, the ship is for adults only; you must be 18 years or older to sail. Not that you should expect a bunch of partying 20-somethings on board. Viking caters to a 55+ crowd, and the majority of its guests are retirees in their 60s and 70s. The cruise line also has a huge fan club. More than half the guests on my Antarctica cruise were repeat passengers who adore Viking’s ocean and river cruises, and you’ll find that to be true on most sailings.
Viking positions its expedition vessels between the over-the-top, completely all-inclusive luxury ships that go to off-the-beaten-path places such as Antarctica and the hardier, no-frills classic expedition ships. It focuses on a comfortable onboard environment with accessible adventure options.
The ship is upscale, but not ornate or stuffy, and its public spaces are inviting rather than impressive. Think of the ship as the living room designed by your friend with good taste instead of the formal sitting area where you’re afraid to touch the expensive decorations.
Many amenities are included in the fare — Wi-Fi; all dining, wine and beer with lunch and dinner; a gorgeous thermal suite with a pool and hot and cold therapies; kayak and special operations boat tours; two-layer jackets to keep; and boots and waterproof pants to borrow in polar cruise regions — but you will still need to pay extra for cocktails (either a la carte or with a beverage package), gratuities, spa treatments and submarine rides.
Of the 250-plus crew members on board, 20-plus are expedition staff: scientists, specialists (biologists, geologists, naturalists, etc.), mountain guides and kayak guides. They are on board to scout and set up landing sites, lead kayak tours, conduct science experiments from the ship, spot wildlife, and give lectures about the flora, fauna and geography of the area. They’re generally helpful individuals, happy to answer your questions and take photos of both guests and wildlife to share.
The ship has seven passenger decks, with the lowest, Deck A, the Zodiac and special operations boat loading zone, and the highest, Deck 6, being an open deck. (The highest Deck 7 is off limits except during the weather balloon release party.) The ship is small and it doesn’t take long to get anywhere, though it does take a few days to get the hang of where things are on board and how to get from point A to point B. Unlike on many ocean cruise ships, you might need to walk down passenger corridors to reach certain lounges.
The ship is unusual in that it has an operational science lab on board where the ship’s research scientists collect data to share with its global partners (such as NOAA and the University of Western Australia). In addition to the Zodiacs and kayaks common on expedition ships, Viking Polaris also carries two six-passenger yellow submersibles (playfully named George and Ringo — get it?) and a Special Operations Boat (a 12-seater speed boat with surprisingly comfortable seats and easy boarding).
All these vessels are stored in The Hangar, a water-level storage area that speeds up the deployment time of all the ship’s watercraft. Here, too, the cruise line has created a spacious and comfortable boarding area that functions without gangways and with the latest biosecurity technology, such as a boot washing machine. The setup makes it easier to both get on and off ships and keep Antarctica clean.
Nordic Spa on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
You don’t expect a full-blown gorgeous spa when you’re adventuring to Antarctica, but Viking Polaris provides not only a beautiful facility but also one that brings the destination in. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the salon and thermal suite area allow you to watch for whales or seals as you enjoy a pedicure or soak in a hot tub.
Even better, the thermal suite is free for anyone to use, so if you get chilled on a wet kayak ride, you can warm up again in the heated pool or pamper tired muscles with a mix of hot and cold therapies. (If you’ve never dumped a bucket of cold water on your head after 15 minutes in a dry sauna or rubbed snow on your body in a steam room, I highly recommend trying it.)
The two-room fitness center is also larger than I expected for an expedition ship and enabled me to keep up my workout routine every morning.
Big kudos go to the spa staff, who are super sweet and helpful. Igor tailored my personal training session to my specific requirements and body needs, rather than giving me some standard plan. Joksim led a surprisingly intense (for a cruise ship) yoga session and then gave me an incredible massage a few days later, working out every knot from my neck to my feet.
If nothing else, stop by the spa reception desk daily to grab an inspirational quote — almost like a fortune cookie — from the bowl of colored cards. It will set the tone for your day.
Safety protocols
Safety briefing on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
I admit I was a tad nervous about the thought of sailing to a place as remote as Antarctica. What if we got stranded ashore during a landing? What if the Zodiac broke down halfway back to the ship?
While any expedition cruise involves a certain degree of risk, the Viking crew members put me at ease with the knowledge that they’ve prepared for every possibility. Two of the expedition guides even led a briefing about the ship’s safety protocols. We learned that the team brings ashore a ton of survival gear at every landing, including tents, thermal blankets, food and water rations, a desalination machine, a satellite phone, crevasse extraction equipment and even a portable toilet. (The latter is only used for true emergencies, so use your cabin bathroom before you head off the ship.)
Zodiac, SOB and submarine drivers are always in radio contact with each other and the ship, and they stay far away from marine animals and icebergs (which could potentially tip over and cause trouble). The crew gives guests clear instructions about how to get in and out of the ship’s boats and someone is always there to give a hand.
All cruise ships in Antarctica follow the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators’ rules for safe and environmentally responsible tourism. Viking Polaris’s crew takes IAATO protocols seriously and works diligently to keep Antarctica pristine.
They sanitize boots going to and from shore, as well as the walking poles they provide, and advise guests against bringing anything unnecessary (snacks, tissues, etc.) to shore so nothing unsanitary ever touches the ground on landings. They even checked and vacuumed all the expedition gear we brought from home, including hats, gloves, goggles and camera bags.
The ship itself is built with all kinds of redundant systems, water-tight doors, and fire-detecting and -fighting equipment. It also carries “ice cubes,” large floating boxes filled with group survival gear for up to five days should the ship have to be abandoned.
It’s unlikely that something will go wrong on your cruise, but it’s comforting to know that the ship and crew are totally prepared for nearly any emergency.
The crew
Chef at the World Cafe on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
Every cruise line will tell you its crew is the best, but the friendliness and helpfulness of Viking Polaris’ crew are palpable from the moment you step on board. Crew members you never met somehow know your name and say hello every time you pass them on board. My cabin stewards always pop out when we walk down the hallway and ask us about our day. They didn’t even bat an eye when my travel companion and I had to try on five expedition jacket sizes to find the right fit.
The dining staff goes above and beyond; Santosh asked us what food we liked on the first day, and had our Indian chickpea curry waiting for us the very next day. One member of the dining team not only fetched a specific flavor of ice cream from the galley for my friend but brought her a second bowl the following day without being asked. The restaurant manager personally reached out and sent me a plate of desserts the day I was sick and holed up in my cabin.
Whenever there are a lot of people wildlife watching on the outer decks, a crew member always seems to turn up with cocktails or spiked warm beverages. What seemed like the entire housekeeping team showed up to the cruise’s dance party one evening and unabashedly boogied down to get guests on the dance floor.
The expedition team members are always happy to answer questions, take your photo or lend a helping hand, and their lectures are always funny and engaging, even if the topic is dry. I was also impressed at the way they set expectations and rules for the guests in a lighthearted, digestible way without getting preachy or patronizing.
The crew absolutely set the tone for a friendly onboard ambience and it makes the long trip that much more enjoyable.
What I didn’t love about Viking Polaris
Lack of announcements
I’ve been on enough high-end cruises to know that the nicer ships don’t like to pipe announcements into your cabin. However, I’d love a bit more communication from the bridge on Viking Polaris.
We missed the captain’s one daily announcement almost every evening because we were inside our room and couldn’t hear it. It’s only when one of us would say, “Is someone talking in the hallway? Oh, wait, it’s the captain!” that we would make a mad dash across the room to open the door to catch the last 15 seconds of whatever he was saying about the weather and the sail ahead.
I’d love a bell or some kind of alert to open our door, even if the announcement itself isn’t piped into the room.
I was also surprised to note that Viking crew members almost never make the “whales off the starboard bow” announcements to alert passengers to wildlife viewing opportunities. I was chagrined when I learned that I had missed some active whales because I was attending an indoor briefing and had no idea that anything interesting was happening out of doors.
Schedule feature in the app
I love a good cruise ship app; it makes navigating a ship and the daily schedule so easy. Viking’s app has many useful features, including your ship’s deck plans, the daily activity schedule, the ability to make reservations and even a photo download section.
However, I heard the same complaint over and over about one aspect of the app: There is no schedule view that allows you to superimpose your reservations (spa, dinner, landings, boat rides) with the onboard activities.
That might not seem like a big deal, but expedition cruises are surprisingly busy. On any day, I might have scheduled a landing and a kayaking tour, but don’t want to miss the science lecture back on the ship. I was constantly flipping back and forth between the two separate schedules, trying to time my bookings correctly.
Other cruise line apps have a “favorite” feature, where you can select the onboard activities you don’t want to miss and add them to a personal calendar that also contains your bookings and reservations. I’d love to see Viking add this as a feature to its app.
Viking Polaris cabins and suites
Deluxe Balcony Cabin on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
On Viking Polaris, you’ll either stay in a balcony cabin or a suite. Regular and deluxe balcony cabins are essentially identical, except that the deluxe version is on decks 3 and 4 and comes with additional priority reservations, while the regular version is on the lower Deck 2.
Lower-category suites (junior suites and penthouses) are also on Deck 4, while the top-tier suites, Explorer Suites and the one Owner’s Suite, are on Deck 6.
The ship only has two Americans with Disabilities Act-compliant/wheelchair-accessible cabins; both are junior suites on Deck 4.
If you’re accustomed to ocean cruising, you’ll notice that the balconies on Viking Polaris are not your standard verandah external to the ship. Instead, they are a style employed by many river ships (and some new Royal Caribbean, Celebrity Cruises and Atlas Ocean Voyages ships), where the entire external wall of your cabin is made up of two glass window panes. With the touch of a button, the top pane slides down (like a car window) and your room becomes the balcony, with fresh air wafting in. You can even lean on the lip of the bottom pane of glass, or rest your coffee cup on it, as if it were a balcony railing.
Blackout shades can also come down at the touch of a button, but if you just need to block the sun a little, a gauzy curtain can be drawn across manually.
This style of room works well in cold polar regions where you are unlikely to sit out on a balcony for long, but do want to bring in fresh air from time to time or take a photo without a window in the way.
I was a big fan of our 215-square-foot Deluxe Balcony cabin because it felt cozy without being cramped. In Viking style, its design has Scandinavian influences with blond woods, fairly minimalist furnishings and a homey (rather than hotel-like) feel.
My favorite aspect of the cabin was the small L-shaped leather couch, tucked into a corner behind the shelving unit that separates the sleeping area from the sitting/desk area. Instead of feeling like the sitting area is smaller than the ones found on other ships, it becomes an inviting nook where you can curl up with a book while admiring the view. The coffee table comes in handy when you order room service.
The desk/vanity across from it looks like a simple tabletop but has two secrets. One is, the top lifts to reveal a storage area for jewelry and other small items, and two is that its X-shaped legs are useful for removing stuck-on expedition boots (move the chair so you can stick your foot through the top of the X and use it as leverage to pull the tight boot off).
The sitting area is smaller than you might expect because more space is smartly devoted to the dressing area on the other side of your bed. Here, you’ll find an L-shaped wardrobe with two hanging racks, two large drawers, two small drawers, a top shelf, two small shelves, a cubby for shoes and the safe. A hair dryer, bathrobes and slippers are provided for your onboard use.
The two sides of the closet open from the middle and can be tricky to pull open. One cruiser reported draping hand towels over the top to keep the doors slightly ajar to make them easier to open with her arthritic fingers.
The wardrobe is spacious, but my travel companion and I brought so much extra gear for our two-week Antarctica cruise (more medicine than I usually bring, long underwear and thick wool socks, etc.) that we maxed out the drawer space in the cabin and would have been happy with an additional drawer or two. For example, I kept all my warm-weather accessories (hats, gloves, goggles, etc.) in a bag on the closet floor because I didn’t have a drawer to store them.
Next to the wardrobe is a brilliant addition on Viking’s part — a drying closet. Cruisers on Viking Polaris keep all of their Viking-provided outdoor gear (boots, waterproof pants, two-layer jackets) in their cabins. If they, or other items, get wet on outings, you hang them up in the drying closet and push a button to turn on the heat, and they dry out before your next adventure ashore.
Drying closet on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
Pro tip: Check the drying closet regularly to make sure the heating element is still on. It does turn off eventually, and you’ll need to hit the button again if your drenched belongings aren’t dry yet.
Other nice touches in the cabin include a carafe of water, a minifridge with complimentary soft drinks refilled daily, a Nespresso coffee machine, a corkscrew, small snacks (bags of nuts and milk chocolate), two pairs of binoculars for use during the cruise and a few books themed to polar exploration. The room’s phone is on the desk, as are Quiet Vox headsets for use on tours (these aren’t used much in Antarctica).
The twin beds can be pushed together into a king, and the woolen throw blankets at the ends are a nice touch, especially if you want to snuggle on the couch with the window open. The movable nightstands each have one drawer and an outlet with a 110-volt, 220-volt, USB and USB-C outlet, as well as a wireless charging station. Each side of the bed has a reading light and a bedside light on the leather headboard.
The 55-inch interactive TV is hung on the wall opposite the bed. It has live TV channels, as well as free on-demand movies, a Viking channel to watch lectures and briefings you missed, and information about your cruise, personal schedule and onboard account. You can also make dinner, spa and shore excursion reservations via the TV.
I would have loved a couple of metal hooks on the wall, but you can bring your own because the textured walls are magnetic (but not the wood veneers outside the bathroom).
The bathroom is lovely, both for the spacious shower with a long ledge for storing toiletries or propping up a foot when shaving and for its heated floors (good for warming your toes and also for drying wet gloves). The glass shelves are small, but two generous drawers and shelf space below should accommodate all your toiletries.
Viking provides its own Freya brand of shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand cream and body lotion in large 2.7-ounce bottles, as well as 30 SPF sunscreen, two sun-protection lip balms, shower caps, vanity kits and bar soap. In the bathroom, you’ll also find a shaver outlet, tissue box, cups and a toothbrush holder.
Aquavit Bar on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
Viking Polaris is a small ship with a big appetite; it features four distinct dining venues plus room service. Meals at all restaurants on Viking Polaris are included in your cruise fare.
The restaurants are inspired by the cruise line’s Norwegian heritage, so you’ll find more smoked fish and Scandinavian pastries than you will on most other cruise lines. For a true Norwegian dining experience, you’ll want to spend time at Mamsen’s, where you can nibble on Norwegian specialties, such as waffles topped with brown cheese and hot dogs on flatbread.
Note that while vegetarian dishes are available at every meal on board, Polaris is definitely a ship that focuses on meat more than vegetables and vegetarian proteins. Gluten-free diners appear to be well taken care of; the bakery even posts a list of all the gluten-free bread products available (including pancakes, waffles and pizza).
On Viking Polaris, beer, wine and soft drinks at lunch and dinner are complimentary. During special events, such as sailaway on embarkation day, or arrival at Antarctica, the crew might come around with trays of complimentary cocktails. You can choose to purchase the Silver Spirits beverage package if you plan to order more than a drink or two daily, or you can pay for individual drinks a la carte.
Restaurants
World Cafe on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
On expedition voyages, the World Cafe buffet venue is the most popular eatery. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and is appealing for its variety of meal choices and its casual dress code. When you’re in and out of cold-weather layers, sometimes you simply don’t feel like dressing up for a formal meal.
Breakfast has everything you need to fuel up for the day, from healthy options like a made-to-order omelet station, yogurt, fruit and muesli to more decadent choices like pastries, breakfast bread pudding and pancakes. True to Viking’s Nordic tradition, morning options also include a selection of smoked fish, deli meats and cheeses. Waiters will bring you tea, hot chocolate and juice; each table is already set up with coffee.
At lunch, you’ll find a selection of hot food, usually including a carving station with a featured protein, a soup, pasta and some kind of fish and vegetarian option. The salad bar has a good selection of fixin’s (though it’s lacking in protein) plus a few cheeses daily.
Carbo-load at the bakery, where you’ll find breads (including soft pretzels), pizza (try the Norwegian goat cheese version), daily hot sandwiches, cookies and other desserts. Don’t miss the gelato stations with toppings bar or the made-to-order counter with new dishes daily, such as a fajita bar.
If you don’t see what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to ask one of the dining staff either behind the buffet counter or walking the seating area. Crew members brought us plain grilled chicken to top a salad, a vegetarian “meatball” when the meatless options were lacking and coconut gelato when it didn’t appear at the ice cream bar.
Dinner is a similar affair with hot options, pizza, a made-to-order counter (often a noodle soup), a Caesar salad bar with additional pre-prepared salads and desserts, including a nightly warm option (like peach crumble or bread pudding) and Coldstone-style mix-in ice cream rolls. The main addition is a nightly sushi bar and seafood buffet (lots and lots of crab legs) in the back by the Aquavit Terrace on the port side of the ship.
I loved that if you’re lingering over a meal toward the end of service, a waiter will come by and alert you that the buffet is closing, so you can grab seconds or dessert before it’s too late.
On the far starboard side of the World Cafe is the Grill. It serves sandwiches by day (multiple types of burgers, veggie burgers, chicken sandwiches and tuna steak) and cooked-to-order meats at night (steak, brisket, burgers, swordfish). You can ask for sides from onion rings and French fries at lunch to roasted potatoes and asparagus at night, or forage for accompaniments from the rest of the buffet.
We spoke to a few diners who said the default is to cook the meats well, so if you prefer yours medium or rare, be very clear about that.
Viking Polaris’ two sit-down restaurants are The Restaurant and Manfredi’s, both on Deck 1 and only open for dinner. The Restaurant is a typical cruise ship main dining room with a menu split into always-available classics and the daily dinner menu that changes each evening. It’s a three-course meal (though you could order more) with starters, mains with sides and dessert.
The daily menu might include leek and potato soup or beef tartare as a starter, seared sesame-crusted tuna or roasted veal medallion for a main, and peanut butter cheesecake for dessert. Note that many of the menu items at The Restaurant will also be available at the World Cafe upstairs.
Always-available dishes include Caesar salad and chicken soup, beer-marinated chicken and New York strip steak, an iced vanilla parfait and a cheese plate.
Manfredi’s on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
Manfredi’s is the ship’s Italian restaurant and the hottest dinner reservation on board. It’s less accommodating of walk-ins so make your bookings early. If you have a special occasion to celebrate, you’ll want to do it here.
The menu is divided into many sections and can be overwhelming at first, but it’s not as complicated as it looks. Starters include antipasti, caprese salad, beef carpaccio and asparagus topped with a poached egg. You also have a choice of two soups. The pasta selection is not to be missed, especially the gnocchi in a gorgonzola cream sauce. You can ask for half or full sizes and enjoy the handmade pasta as a starter or main.
Main dishes come in two varieties. Piatti unici come as complete dinners with a protein and vegetable side, while secondi piatti are only the protein and you choose your sides. For example, I ordered the sliced grilled duck breast and it came plated with a salad, but if I’d ordered the Florentine steak or grilled tuna, I would want to also order some sauteed mushrooms or new potatoes with truffles and rosemary.
Don’t worry — you can order sides even if you choose a pasta or pre-assembled dish as your main.
Desserts include tiramisu, panna cotta and pistachio cake, as well as a selection of gelato. I’d recommend the pistachio cake with a scoop of vanilla gelato.
Most cruisers can make one reservation at each restaurant prior to the cruise, but suite guests can make two to four pre-cruise reservations per venue, depending on the suite category booked. Anyone can make additional reservations online or try their luck with a walk-in if there’s space available. We’ve heard it’s easier to get seats at The Restaurant than at Manfredi’s.
If you have a large group, you can reserve the private dining room between The Restaurant and Manfredi’s. It seats 12 at one long table and is surrounded by racks housing the ship’s wines. It’s ideal if you want to have a rowdy group dinner without disturbing other diners, but it’s a poor choice if you enjoy the scenery during dinner as the room has no windows.
Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks, Mamsen’s is a cute cafe serving Norwegian specialties inspired by the recipes of the mother of Viking’s founder. The stars of the show here are the Norwegian waffles you can top with sweet brown cheese, berry compote or chocolate sauce, hot dogs served on flatbread, pea soup and open-faced sandwiches.
Viking’s expedition ships do not serve a fancy afternoon tea like its ocean ships do, but you can find scones with clotted cream and jam served here in the afternoon.
As a special treat, the dining staff might host a barbecue lunch on the top deck (6) on a day when the weather is sunny. It’s a fun, festive alfresco meal, but you won’t get much notice and might have to adjust your landing times if you don’t want to miss it.
Our barbecue was a meaty affair with chicken wings and pork ribs as an appetizer and a choice of steak or sea bass, with baked potatoes and cole slaw, as a main. We were initially told there was no vegetarian option, but the server came back saying they could get a veggie burger from the grill. If you’re looking for something lighter or more vegetable-forward, the World Cafe remains open.
Room service is complimentary and available around the clock. Your room steward will leave you a breakfast card to hang outside on your door knob, for delivery between 6 and 10 a.m. Choices include beverages, fruit, yogurt, cereal, pastries and bread, cold cuts and cheeses, eggs, pancakes and breakfast meat.
Room service on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
The all-day menu is in a leather binder on your cabin’s coffee table. It’s a limited menu, which includes salads, soups, mains (steak, poached salmon, southern fried chicken), sandwiches (caprese, beef or veggie burger), spaghetti, a cheese plate and dessert (vanilla cheesecake or bourbon pecan brownie). You can call your order in on your in-room phone.
Everyone agrees that the fried chicken and the chicken noodle soup from the room service menu are not to be missed.
Bars
Explorers’ Lounge on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
I’m not much of a drinker, but the bars and lounges on Viking Polaris are so comfy and inviting that I found myself looking forward to a pre-dinner cocktail or evening hangout in one of the ship’s bars more than I do on other cruise lines. Viking guests can either purchase drinks a la carte or buy the Silver Spirits beverage package. All passengers can order complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks at lunch and dinner.
The cocktail menus at the bars are composed of standard drinks, but bartenders can make you your favorites off menu if they have the ingredients. We successfully ordered Pimm’s Cups and Lemon Drops, but a Dark n Stormy and Moscow Mule were no-go’s because the ship does not carry ginger beer. (And here I thought a Dark n Stormy would be a perfect Drake Passage drink!)
My favorite bar for atmosphere is The Hide on Deck 1. It feels like a speak-easy because you can only access it from Deck 2’s forward stairwell or elevator.
The Hide on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
You open a heavy door that looks like it belongs on a submarine to enter a dimly lit space with slanted windows on either side with views close to the water line. The clusters of couches and easy chairs invite confidences with newfound friends, while the oversized cushion chairs by the windows will tempt you into an afternoon nap, lulled by the rocking of the ship. The large columns at the front of the space actually house the anchor chains.
It also has a speakeasy-style bar, serving liquor-forward drinks (either your favorite liquor straight or on the rocks or with a light mixer, like soda water). You won’t find wine, beer or daiquiris here. The small bar is only staffed for a limited time each evening after dinner.
For views, you can’t beat the two-deck Explorers’ Lounge on decks 4 and 5. Both levels face the front of the ship with floor-to-ceiling windows and wraparound views. When you want to look for whales but don’t want to brave the wind, the Explorers’ Lounge is a great choice. The bar is on the lower level, but both levels offer cozy seating, both facing the windows and in conversation nooks.
An equally cozy spot is The Living Room on Deck 5. It has a bar but serves more as a comfortable hangout space with a library, digital game tables, puzzles and a large TV showing Viking channels.
As is common on this ship, glass windows run the length of both sides of the space so you’re never far from the scenic views. Events like team trivia take place here. The Living Room’s bar opens early, should you be looking for coffee drinks from an espresso machine, and closes mid-evening.
Aquavit Bar on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
The Aquavit Bar between the World Cafe and Aquavit Terrace serves diners at the buffet restaurant, as well as guests relaxing in the aft solarium space. It closes at the same time that dinner shuts down.
The Viking Bar on Deck 1 is your pre-dinner drink spot when you have a reservation at The Restaurant or Manfredi’s. It’s only open during dinner hours, from 5:30 (half an hour between the restaurants open) to 9 p.m.
If you need a quick cuppa or to refill your water bottle, self-service coffee/tea/water stations are located around the ship. You’ll find them on Deck 2 outside The Aula and outside Expedition Central and in the World Cafe.
Viking Polaris activities and entertainment
Submersible. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
As the crew likes to say on Viking Polaris, the ship has no official entertainment staff because the outdoors is providing the main entertainment on an expedition cruise. The ship’s Grand Central station for outdoor adventure activities is The Hangar. That is where you will board the ship’s Special Operations Boat or Zodiac boats (rigid inflatable motorized rafts) for cruises, landings and to be taken to waiting kayaks and submersibles (named Ringo and George because the subs are yellow).
The Hangar is arranged so it’s as easy as possible to board the Zodiacs. No gangways are employed. Instead, you step from an open door onto a step in the Zodiac and then into a boat, with at least two crew members assisting you in and out every time. The Hangar also employs a state-of-the-art boot brushing and sanitizing machine (imagine walking your feet through car wash bristles) to make it easy to clean boots on the way to and from polar landings.
Viking does not schedule polar plunges for safety reasons (both yours and Antarctica’s), so you will not cross that activity off your bucket list on a Polaris sailing.
Even though your focus will be on shore and sea excursions, you’ll still find plenty to do on board.
Viking puts an emphasis on enrichment and education, and you’ll find yourself often in The Aula, the theater based on a famous Norwegian lecture hall. It has a giant video screen that can roll up like a garage door to uncover the huge windows behind it. Warm throw blankets in every row are a cozy touch.
Here, the expedition team will give daily briefings about weather conditions and upcoming landing sites, give talks on the area’s wildlife or culture, and show documentaries and videos related to the destination.
Some talks (including an entertaining one on nautical superstitions) are held in the Hide. Arrive early because seats are limited, and latecomers might have to stand in the back or sit on the floor.
The ship also has a science lab, and guests can participate in real experiments and data collection during their voyage. You can find an interactive map and often an expedition team member to talk to at Expedition Central on Deck 2.
But it’s not all serious edutainment. A dance party with some complimentary cocktails is held in The Living Room one evening and a music variety show takes place in The Aula.
On the more relaxing side, Viking Polaris has a world-class Nordic Spa with a gorgeous thermal suite. The thermal suite features numerous hot and cold therapies (including a snow room, sauna and a hot tub with an open window to the polar breezes outside), a therapeutic pool and stunning views through floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s the perfect place to warm up after a cold Zodiac ride or landing, so it can get crowded in the afternoon.
Book a mani-pedi or style session at the salon, and you’ll also be able to take in the views while you’re pampered.
Spa treatments have a Nordic twist, but you’ll find all the massages, facials and body treatments you could want. Try the Hygge massage in a warm “sand” bed — it’s a Viking specialty. My Nordic stone massage was one of the best massages I’ve ever had, and my masseur, Joksim, knew what my stressed-out body needed and worked out all my knots. Ladies should note that many of Viking’s spa therapists are men if that’s something that makes you uncomfortable.
The two-room fitness center is small by big-ship standards, but it still manages to fit three treadmills, two elliptical trainers, two stationary bikes, an erg, resistance machines and weight benches with free weights. In the group exercise space, you can take classes, use the yoga and bosu balls on your own, or access a range of digital exercise classes on the large-screen TV.
Fitness center on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
The gym is most crowded early in the morning before the day’s briefings, lectures and expedition activities get going. If you want to work out with the crew, time your workout for prime dinner hours.
The ship has multiple outdoor spots for nature gazing and alfresco relaxation. The Bow on Deck 3 is a great forward-facing spot to look for whales or watch the ship’s arrival at a landing area. It’s adjacent to the Shelter, a covered spot to take refuge from the wind or rain (and occasionally snag an Irish coffee on a special occasion).
The Finse Terrace on Deck 2 aft, outside The Aula, has two fire pit areas for serious chilling.
The Aquavit Terrace on Deck 5 aft has a warm pool surrounded by lounge chairs and covered by a retractable glass roof. The glass window at the end of the pool opens up, so you can swim out to an uncovered section of the pool. On either side are two outdoor tubs — one hot, one cool. There’s nothing better than soaking in a hot tub on a sunny Antarctic day with snow-covered mountains and icebergs all around you.
The promenade on Deck 5 is a lovely place to walk, though you’ll have to go down to Deck 4 and back up again at the front of the ship to complete the loop. Deck 6 is an open deck where you can lounge on warmer itineraries or scan for wildlife on cold ones.
Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
If you want to buy gorgeous Norwegian sweaters like the expedition crew wears, adorable penguin beanies and the softest stuffed puppies, visit the Nordic Shop on Deck 3 midship when it’s open. It also sells items you might have forgotten, such as toothpaste or hand warmers. The hottest items here are the Antarctica patches you can attach to your Viking-provided jacket. If you want one, come when the shop opens as they can sell out.
Guest services include a medical center on Deck A, a travel consultant (to book your next Viking river, ocean or expedition cruise) on Deck 3 across from the shop and guest services desks on Deck 1 outside Manfredi’s.
Guest launderettes on decks 3 and 4 have washers and dryers, irons and ironing boards, and detergent is provided. Be sure to set a timer and remove your items promptly. The launderettes are popular on long cruises.
Viking Polaris itineraries and pricing
Viking Polaris in Antarctica. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
Viking Polaris currently spends the North American winter in Antarctica and the summer in the Great Lakes, transitting between the two in the spring and fall. The one-way repositioning voyages take passengers along the coast of Chile, through the Panama Canal, along the Eastern Seaboard of the U.S. and Canada then into the St. Lawrence Seaway.
In 2026, the ship will spend the summer months sailing Iceland and Greenland cruises in the Arctic instead of the Great Lakes.
Viking expedition cruises tend to be long, and many itineraries are combinations of multiple cruises that could be booked separately. Travelers pressed for time can book a seven-night Great Lakes sailing, but the shortest Arctic and Antarctic cruises are at least 12 nights. Many itineraries are two weeks or longer. To sail between Milwaukee, Wisconsin, in the Great Lakes to Ushuaia, Argentina, at the southern tip of South America takes just over 60 days.
A 12-night Antarctic Explorer cruise starts at $11,995 per person in the lowest-tier Nordic balcony cabin. A weeklong Great Lakes cruise starts at $5,995 per person. A 12-night Arctic sailing starts at $13,995. Fares go up for more popular sail dates and for larger and higher-category cabins.
Required documents will vary depending on your cruise destination, but you will definitely need a passport.
If you’re traveling to Antarctica or the Arctic, you will need a medical form signed by a doctor, clearing you to travel. Submit that at least 30 days prior to sailing. You must also fill out a form pre-cruise to request the correct size of jacket, pants and boots for your expedition.
Gratuities
Viking automatically adds a $17 gratuity per guest, per day, to your onboard bill. It is shared among the room stewards, waiters, galley staff and housekeeping. If you must change the amount, you can do so at Guest Services; you’re always welcome to leave additional tips in cash or hand them to your favorite crew members.
I asked, and it is acceptable to tip expedition staff, in addition to waiters, bartenders and room stewards. Spa treatments do not automatically add a gratuity to your bill, but you can leave a tip when you’re signing after your treatment.
Wi-Fi
Wi-Fi is included in the cost of your cruise. Viking uses a VSAT satellite terminal to provide the connection, and it was impressively good. I was able to make several WhatsApp Wi-Fi video calls back home from Antarctica, and though the image wasn’t perfect, I could still show my kids penguins swimming off the side of the ship.
Carry-on drinks policy
Viking has a generous alcohol policy. All passengers are allowed to bring alcohol and other beverages on the ship with them, and they won’t be charged a corkage fee, regardless of whether they drink their beverage in their room or in a lounge or restaurant.
Smoking policy
Viking Polaris is a nonsmoking ship, and you cannot smoke indoors or on most outdoor decks. The only place you’re allowed to smoke cigarettes, cigars and e-cigarettes is in the designated smoking area outside on the starboard side of Deck 6.
If you’re cruising in polar regions, you should also be aware that smoking is not allowed ashore anywhere in Antarctica or in Svalbard in the Arctic.
Laundry
Viking Polaris has two self-serve launderettes on decks 3 and 4. Each features multiple washers and dryers you can use free of charge; detergent is provided. Irons and ironing boards are also available, but you can only use them in the launderette.
Alternatively, you can send out clothes to be washed and dried, pressed or dry cleaned for a fee. A bag is provided in your room, and you can select regular two-day service or same-day service for a 50% surcharge. Prices are per item, not per bag.
If it’s been a while since you’ve used communal laundry rooms, you will need to dig deep and remember your college laundry etiquette. Set a timer on your cellphone so you can switch your laundry promptly. Fail to do so and another guest is likely to dump your wet laundry onto the ironing board.
We overheard several heated discussions about who had rights to which dryers and when. Don’t wait until the last day of your trip to do your washing, as that’s when the launderettes are the busiest.
Electrical outlets
Viking Polaris is a 21st-century ship, so you can expect more than just one outlet. Each nightstand features a three-part power strip with a U.S. 110-volt, European 220-volt, USB and USB-C outlet, as well as a wireless charger, should your phone have that capability (mine did not). Note that when you plug a charger into the 110-volt outlet, it blocks the regular USB outlet, but not the USB-C.
The desk area has two 110V and two 220V sockets. There’s also a 220V outlet outside the bathroom, should you wish to plug in your own nightlight, and a shaver outlet inside the bathroom.
Currency
The onboard currency is the U.S. dollar. You won’t be paying for much — mainly souvenirs, drinks and spa treatments. You’ll be asked to provide a credit card, and your onboard bill will be charged to that account.
Drinking age
The drinking age on board is 21, regardless of where Viking Polaris is in the world.
Dress code
Expeditions are casual affairs. You will be so anxious about bringing the correct polar gear that onboard attire is almost an afterthought.
Daytime attire on the ship is a mix of casual outfits based on the weather (jeans, slacks, sneakers, etc.) and adventure attire (leggings, fleece vests or jackets, athletic pants). One guy on our Antarctica sailing was often seen in a tropical shirt and shorts. The spa’s changing areas are small, so you’ll also see people walking the ship in their bathrobes or workout wear on their way to and from the Nordic Spa.
If you don’t want to change for dinner, your casual daywear is appropriate at the World Cafe in the evening. No one will blink if you show up in a fleece jacket and hiking pants or athletic leggings and a top. Only swimwear, PJs and true exercise attire (like a sports bra with bike shorts) would not be acceptable. And, yes, we did witness a guest being ever-so-politely encouraged to leave the World Cafe when he showed up in his bathrobe.
If you wish to dine at The Restaurant or Manfredi’s, you are supposed to step it a notch. Viking considers evening dress in the restaurants “elegant casual” — aka, no jeans. The suggested attire is slacks and a collared shirt for men and nice slacks, a skirt or dress for women. However, we saw diners dressed more casually (fleece jackets and jeans) in both restaurants, and no one said a word.
Viking Polaris does not have any formal evenings, so leave your cocktail dresses, suits and neckties at home.
Bottom line
If you want to visit the ends of the earth without giving up creature comforts, Viking Polaris is the perfect ship for you. Its large-for-expedition size means the ship is loaded with attractions, from multiple restaurants and lounges to an expansive spa, spacious cabins and dedicated spaces for enrichment activities. Its state-of-the-art Hangar allows travelers of all abilities to access off-ship adventure and its expedition team to set up water- and land-based activities as quickly as possible.
However, if you want to spend as much time as possible off the ship in polar regions, you might do better, especially in Antarctica, with a ship that carries closer to 100 passengers. The trade-off is that you might have to choose a ship that has fewer frills and amenities than Viking Polaris.
Plus, it’s unclear that any expedition ship has a crew as friendly, knowledgeable and helpful as the folks who work aboard Polaris. They make the trip more special than any ship designer or rare penguin could ever do.
There’s a lot to love about the Marriott Bonvoy program. You can transfer Marriott Bonvoy points to over 40 airline partners, but I usually prefer to redeem Marriott points for hotel stays. So, here are some of my favorite ways to maximize Marriott award night redemptions.
Stay for 5, Pay for 4
One of the easiest ways to maximize Marriott Bonvoy award redemptions is to use the program’s Stay for 5, Pay for 4 offer. This offer automatically lets Marriott Bonvoy members enjoy a free night every time they redeem points for four nights on a stay of five consecutive nights or longer.
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You can enjoy the Stay for 5, Pay for 4 offer more than once on a single Marriott award stay. For example, if you redeem Marriott points for a 10-night stay, you’ll get the two least expensive nights free.
This perk means you may not want to redeem Marriott Bonvoy points for a four-night stay, as it may not cost you much more to redeem points for a five-night stay. By booking an extra night, you can extend your vacation — or effectively guarantee early check-in or late checkout — and get one more night toward qualifying for the next tier of Marriott elite status.
According to TPG’s valuations, Marriott points are worth about 0.84 cents each. So, I generally try to get at least 0.84 cents per Marriott point on my award stays. However, even with dynamic award pricing, you’ll sometimes see some nights within a specific stay have a higher or lower redemption value.
Thankfully, with Marriott’s Cash + Points combination feature, you can choose which nights to pay cash for and which to book with points. You’ll see a “Use Cash + Points” drop-down option under the points tab when you search award rates for stays of two nights or longer. If you click on it, you can compare the rates for each night of your stay.
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You can even use Marriott’s Cash + Points combination feature on a stay where you get a fifth night free. However, you must use points for at least five nights. For example, you can book a seven-night stay with two cash nights and five points nights.
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Choose carefully which nights you want to book with points and which you want to book with cash. In the above example, I opted to avoid the most expensive 18,500-point rate of my stay by paying the least expensive $137 rate. Then, I decided to pay $141 instead of 18,000 points for my first night. However, be aware that the cash rates in the above screenshot don’t include taxes and fees.
If you have flexible dates for your travel, you can use Marriott Bonvoy’s calendar search to find less expensive award dates for your desired property. To use the calendar search, select “Flexible Dates” when starting an award search on Marriott’s website.
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Click “Find Hotels,” then select “View Rates” for the property of your choice. Doing so will load an award calendar that you can view month by month.
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As you can see in the above example, if I wanted to stay at the Renaissance Nashville Hotel next February, I could redeem as little as 45,000 or as much as 76,000 Marriott points for a one-night stay. So, if you have flexible dates for your getaway or staycation, you might be able to snag a lower award rate.
Even now, you can find rates with flexible cancellation policies at Al Maha that you can book for as little as 82,000 points or $1,311 per night. Redeeming points at this rate would give you a redemption value of 1.6 cents per point, almost double TPG’s valuation of 0.84 cents per point.
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It’s a lot of points, but based on my experience at the property — which includes meals and two activities per person, per day for overnight guests — I’d confidently say it is worth spending two or three nights if you’re looking for a unique, memorable experience and enjoy outdoor desert activities.
However, it can make sense to check the nightly award cost on other stays and consider applying a free night award to one night instead of redeeming points. You’ll want to look for a night with a redemption cost of 35,000 points or less.
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Don’t apply a free night award to a five-night stay you’re booking with Marriott points, though, as doing so would mean you wouldn’t get the Stay for 5, Pay for 4 offer.
Most Marriott credit cards offer a free night award each year on your account anniversary, but you can also select a free night award worth up to 40,000 points as a Marriott Choice Benefit each calendar year you accrue 75 or more elite night credits.
As you can see, many ways to maximize Marriott award redemptions exist. If you follow the suggestions in this guide, including using the Stay for 5, Pay for 4 offer, you’ll find it easy to get good value when redeeming Marriott points.
If you thought expedition cruising was all about polar destinations, think again. The newest ships and itineraries will have you swapping the thermal gear for swimsuits, basking in bright sunshine and slipping into the warm crystal waters in some of the more remote tropics around the world, including wild frontiers without the bone-chilling cold.
Here are seven of the best warm-weather expedition itineraries to explore.
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Seabourn in the Kimberley
SEABOURN/FACEBOOK
The Kimberley is Australia’s hottest destination right now, and Seabourn‘s ultra-luxe Seabourn Pursuit — which debuts there in June — is the best way to see it in style. The 10-night Waterfalls and Wandjinas tour from Broome to Darwin winds through a wilderness that is almost the size of California but home to fewer than 40,000 people.
Natural wonders abound in this wild frontier etched with rivers, waterfalls, tidal creeks, reefs and white sand beaches — many only accessible by boat. On guided tours, witness ancient rock art, dive into Western Australia’s rich pearling history and experience Indigenous culture firsthand with a traditional face-painting ceremony.
On board the 264-passenger Seabourn Pursuit is a wellness spa, 24-hour room service (hello caviar) and the Bow Lounge, which features interactive navigation maps and front-row seats to saltwater crocodiles and the magnificent red sandstone gorges that date back 1.8 billion years. Expeditions are equally mind-blowing, as the Zodiac boats thread through the narrow gap of Horizontal Falls or zip out as the tide turns so guests can see Montgomery Reef surface magically from the sea.
Nothing says aloha like island hopping in Hawaii aboard a 36-guest boutique yacht. UnCruise Adventures’ seven-night Hawaiian Seascapes expedition is one for nature lovers, with opportunities to snorkel with manta rays, swim with sea turtles, float above a coral garden bright with neon fish or peer into the crater of an active volcano.
Hawaiian culture is also in the spotlight. With stops at four islands — Molokai, Lanai, Maui and Hawaii (the Big Island) — you’ll have ample time to explore. Cycle local villages, chase waterfalls, hike rainforests alive with birdsong or learn to make poi, Hawaii’s beloved dish of mashed taro.
On board Safari Explorer are kayaks, paddleboards and a skiff to explore the dramatic coastline up close. Lounging on the ship’s three decks has its own reward. You might spot cavorting dolphins or a humpback whale or two popping out of the sea to wave a fin hello.
Cruise the Sea of Cortez with Lindblad Expeditions, and you’ll soon discover the magic of Baja Mexico from a team with more than 30 years of experience sailing this dazzling 2,500-mile coastline.
Itineraries of six to 15 days dive into this biodiverse landscape — described by Jacques Cousteau as nature’s aquarium. Get up close to sea lions, rays, big fish and dolphins. Shore landings are no less awesome, hiking desert arroyos spiked with cactuses and islands clamorous with sea lions and squawking seabirds.
Whale watching is one of Baja’s biggest draws, the sparkling waters filled with the spray and song of humpbacks, orcas and the rare blue whale. This is where California gray whales come to breed and huge whale sharks glide through shimmering seas. These encounters are memorable, but Lindblad goes one step further, with expeditions in local panga boats for up-close encounters with the gentle mamas and their calves.
Silversea Cruises in the Galapagos
Silver Origin approaching Kicker Rock at sunset in the Galapagos Islands. SILVERSEA CRUISES
The Galapagos is the ultimate in adventure travel. This remote archipelago of 19 islands is carpeted with an astonishing 9,000 species of flora and fauna, many not found anywhere else in the world. It’s here that Charles Darwin formulated his theory of evolution. More than 150 years later, not much has changed, except perhaps the mode of transport.
Cue Silversea Cruises‘ Silver Origin, a luxe 50-suite ship with butler service and a decidedly Ecuadorian flavor found in the ship’s food, team of Ecuadorian national expert guides and, of course, excursions. Off-ship expeditions will have you hiking ancient lava flows, snorkeling with huge fish and island hopping through primordial landscapes flush with blue- and red-footed boobies, sea lions and giant tortoises.
Drama is everywhere in the Galapagos — and not just the animal kind. Thirteen of the 21 volcanoes in the archipelago are active. With a little luck, your wilderness outing might include dress circle views of a volcano’s billowing peak.
Spend a week sailing Indonesia’s Raja Ampat with Aqua Expeditions, and you could be forgiven for thinking you’d found paradise. Galaxies of karst islands drift above coral reefs alive with darting fish, pygmy seahorses, black-tipped reef sharks, octopuses and manta rays. The diving and snorkeling are out of this world.
So, too, is life on board Aqua Blu, a 30-passenger superyacht replete with a Jacuzzi, an outdoor barbeque and a Balinese spa. The former HMS Beagle is barefoot luxury at its best with a no-shoes policy for the entire seven-night cruise.
On board are diving and snorkeling gear, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, so you can explore this far-flung Southeast Asian archipelago at your own pace. On landings, unearth hidden lagoons and beaches, and go in search of the rare crimson bird of paradise. One thing is certain: Dropping anchor anywhere in this pristine archipelago of 1,500 islands promises nature writ large.
Aurora Expeditions in Costa Rica and the Panama Canal
AURORA EXPEDITIONS/FACEBOOK
Slow-moving three-toed sloths, howler monkeys, toucans and crimson macaws are just some of the wonders of Costa Rica, a nation that lives and breathes sustainability. The newest cruise from eco-minded Aurora Expeditions tours the Central American country’s Pacific coastline, diving into the heart of its greenest parks and wildlife reserves, including the small but popular Manuel Antonio National Park.
Panama is another highlight of this 10-night sailing (with a one-night pre-cruise stay in San Jose, Costa Rica). There are stops in the Pearl Islands and a visit to the Indigenous Indian tribes of Embera, a village deep in the rainforest. Miraflores Visitor Center — with the history of making the canal — is also fascinating.
Most cruises head straight through the canal, but Aurora runs expeditions in Gatun Lake, the 21-mile artificial waters that made the Panama Canal crossing possible. It’s, of course, a warmup for the main event — a daylight crossing of the 51-mile engineering marvel that connects the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.
Fiji’s reputation for being one of the friendliest nations now extends to its cruise offerings, as it’s the setting for the friendliest expedition ship, the 114-passenger MS Caledonian Sky. This recent addition to the Captain Cook Cruises fleet is crewed by locals, which means one thing — service with ebullient smiles and no end of welcoming bulas, the Fijian greeting for hello.
The seven-night Southern Lau itinerary takes in an archipelago, far from the high-end island resorts and “flop and drop” beach holidays of more popular Denarau and Viti Levu. Each day brings two stops at an island or coral reef and visits to local villages and schools. Snorkel, dive with a qualified instructor, kayak or head out in the glass-bottomed boat. Island visits celebrate Fiji’s vibrant culture with traditional dances and lovo feasts, banquets cooked using an earth oven.
Can’t get enough? Book a two-week itinerary to trace the migratory path of the Tongan Tribe, the last humpback whales to be hunted. It’s a rare opportunity to witness these majestic cetaceans soar and belly-flop into the air before blowing a final, salty kiss farewell.
